All of this for a rock !

Except Percé is about a whole lot more than than a hole in the rock it’s named for.

Yes, the famous Rocher Percé is the star of the show. This enormous piece of limestone has been standing out in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, just off the coast of Percé, for roughly 375 million years, slowly being shaped by the sea. It has changed quite a bit over time. It once had as many as three arches. Today, only one remains. That arch is about 20 metres high, and about 300 tonnes of rock are lost to erosion each year. Another reminder again that the only constant thing in life is change.

But the rock is really just the beginning.

Rocher Percé is the anchor for everything around it. The water. The trails. The views. The boats. The Boutiques. The Food.

Dinner and a Show

We arrived at our accommodations at Au Pic à l’Aurore around 6pm, and we had dinner reservations at 7:30, so it was a quick change to freshen up and off we went to Maison Black Whale.

Reservations are a must during peak season and I wouldn’t chances it on the off season either.

We settled in, and right away, we loved the atmosphere. It was high-end dining without feeling stuffy. It was bright yet relaxed, welcoming and with top-notch service. The kind of place where you can enjoy a beautiful meal without feeling like you have to sit up straight the entire time. But we still did.

I started with the fish chowder. It was tomato-based, rich and comforting with so much flavour . Exactly the kind of thing you want after a day on the road.

For the main course, it was a pan-seared cod that practically flaked just looking at it. It was that fresh. The fish was served on a bed of red cabbage with roasted carrots, tiny golden and purple beets, potatoes, celery root and crispy zucchini ribbons on the side. This was a first for me. I had never tried celery root before. It’s kind of like a cross between a turnip and a parsnip, but milder. I quite enjoyed it.

And then came dessert. A decadent crème brûlée. Because apparently, we hadn't eaten enough yet.

But it wasn't quite over yet. Our waiter Fred came over and informed us that someone had gifted us little digestif. He brought us eau-de-vie at 45% alcohol. Now we know why they call it “water of life”. It definitely put a little pep in our step.

Belly laugh number… ??? Honestly, I’ve lost count at this point. LOL Merci, Daniel.

And then, just when we thought the evening couldn't get any better, Mother Nature decided to put on her own show. A big, beautiful thunder and lightning storm rolled in and lit up the sky and the Rocher Perce.

Now that’s what I call dinner and a show. You really can't ask for much better than that.

Fish Chowder - Pan Seared Cod with Root Vegetables - Creme Brulee.

Now I lay myself to rest

With a day of driving under our belt, lighthouse pit stops, and our bellies full, we headed back to Au Pic de l’Aurore, our refuge for the next 2 nights. They offer several types of accommodations, including chalets, motel-style apartments and studios, as well as an entire house.

The main lodge has this great cottage-meets-cabin feel, complete with another massive stone fireplace that seemed to be following us around Gaspésie.

We were staying in one of their studios, complete with a fully equipped kitchen, a king-size bed, a pull-out couch and a balcony with an ocean view. From up there, we could look down over the town below, with the Rock right there in the distance.

Not a bad view to end or start of the day.

A big thank you to the team at Au Pic de l’Aurore for hosting us and giving us such a beautiful place to call home while we explored Percé. We truly enjoyed our stay!

Night vision required

Now you know when you're tired and you wake up in the middle of the night not quite sure where you are? Well, that was me at 4 a.m.

I needed to use the bathroom, and I knew Natasha was sleeping on the pull-out couch right next to the bathroom door. In fact, I had made a mental note of the route the night before for exactly this reason.

I was prepared.

So, in the pitch dark, I quietly tiptoed across the room. I was feeling pretty damn proud of myself. Not a toe stubbed. Not a piece of furniture bumped. I was practically a ninja. And, most importantly, I hadn't woken my sleeping cousin.

I was feeling pretty damn proud of myself when suddenly...BANG!

Yup. The bathroom door was closed. Face first into the door.

It was painted a dark colour, so in the pitch black it looked like a void. A perfect, complete empty-looking void. It most definitely was not.

I stood there in the dark, whispering a few choice swear words under my breath, when I heard a little giggle coming from the peanut gallery.

Not a “Are you okay?” Not an “OMG, what happened?” Nope.

Just a little giggle... followed by a snore.

After a day of winding coastal roads, this was exactly the kind of place you want to come home to.

A little bit rustic. A little bit romantic.

Ma Jolie Louise à la Maison Mathilde

Another favourite of ours was La Maison Mathilde. You know the food has to be good when there’s a lineup outside for breakfast. So again, reservations are a must.

We didn't have one though because this was a last-minute suggestion from a friend of mine. Merci, Mona! But honestly, the 15-minute wait was absolutely worth it.

This not-so-little restaurant just keeps delivering. You first walk into a, for lack of a better term, bright white bar-like area. Then you step into a lovely seating area, and if you keep going, there’s a covered sunroom that spills out into a garden.

And can I just take a minute to talk about our Beautiful Hostess Louise ? Her and I bonded immediately. There was something about her energy that felt so familiar. She had this beautiful smile about her that reminded me so much of my grandmother.

And oddly enough, just before we walked into the restaurant, Natasha and I had shared a moment in the car talking about our grandfather, with a tear or two along the way. Then we walked in and I met Louise.

Then she told me she was 80 years young.

It was one of those little moments where you think, Okay, I know I was supposed to meet this woman.

And just like that, it felt like we'd known each other all our lives. We hugged, and then we held that hug just a little longer.

And then there was the food. YUM!

We had the most delicious eggs Benedict, served on the crispiest, moistest, most meat-filled crab cake. I mean… come on! 😂

Not only was my belly full after breakfast, but more importantly, my soul was nourished by this woman's light.

Again, the universe gave us a little nod.

Ma Jolie Louise. We also had matching glasses. *LOL*‍ ‍Soul Sisters.

Bouton et Porcelaine

Bouton et Porcelaine is such a cute, fresh little boutique. A mix of vintage and contemporary finds, with everything Canadian-made.

This is a new addition to the Percé area. It had only been open for a few months when we were there, so we were happy to discover it early on. You’ll find a little bit of everything, from reinvented pieces to plants, handmade crafts and cozy candles.

If you're in the area, make sure to show her some love and pop in for a visit. Or follow her on Instagram and see what she’s finding!

Au Pic de l’Aurore: https://percechalet.com/

Boutique Bouton et Porcelaine: https://www.instagram.com/bouton.et.porcelaine/

Maison Black Whale Restaurant: https://nathetcompagnie.com/en/restaurant-boutique-in-perce/

Maison Matilde Restaurant: https://lamaisonmathilde.com/menu/

Quebec Maritme: https://www.quebecmaritime.ca/

Start at the beginning and follow the adventure: https://sylviemazerolle.com/blog/gaspesie-road-trip

Part 5-Gaspe Road Trip-We Have Arrived in Perce

All of this for a rock !

Except Percé is about a whole lot more than than a hole in the rock it’s named for.

But the rock is really just the beginning.

Rocher Percé is the anchor for everything around it. The water. The trails. The views. The boats. The Boutiques. The Food.

Dinner and a Show

We arrived at our accommodations at Au Pic à l’Aurore around 6pm, and we had dinner reservations at 7:30, so it was a quick change to freshen up and off we went to Maison Black Whale.

Reservations are a must during peak season and I wouldn’t chances it on the off season either.

I started with the fish chowder. It was tomato-based, rich and comforting with so much flavour . Exactly the kind of thing you want after a day on the road.

And then came dessert. A decadent crème brûlée. Because apparently, we hadn't eaten enough yet.

But it wasn't quite over yet. Our waiter Fred came over and informed us that someone had gifted us little digestif. He brought us eau-de-vie at 45% alcohol. Now we know why they call it “water of life”. It definitely put a little pep in our step.

Belly laugh number… ??? Honestly, I’ve lost count at this point. LOL Merci, Daniel.

And then, just when we thought the evening couldn't get any better, Mother Nature decided to put on her own show. A big, beautiful thunder and lightning storm rolled in and lit up the sky and the Rocher Perce.

Now that’s what I call dinner and a show. You really can't ask for much better than that.

Now I lay myself to rest

With a day of driving under our belt, lighthouse pit stops, and our bellies full, we headed back to Au Pic de l’Aurore, our refuge for the next 2 nights. They offer several types of accommodations, including chalets, motel-style apartments and studios, as well as an entire house.

The main lodge has this great cottage-meets-cabin feel, complete with another massive stone fireplace that seemed to be following us around Gaspésie.

We were staying in one of their studios, complete with a fully equipped kitchen, a king-size bed, a pull-out couch and a balcony with an ocean view. From up there, we could look down over the town below, with the Rock right there in the distance.

Not a bad view to end or start of the day.

A big thank you to the team at Au Pic de l’Aurore for hosting us and giving us such a beautiful place to call home while we explored Percé. We truly enjoyed our stay!

Night vision required

Now you know when you're tired and you wake up in the middle of the night not quite sure where you are? Well, that was me at 4 a.m.

I needed to use the bathroom, and I knew Natasha was sleeping on the pull-out couch right next to the bathroom door. In fact, I had made a mental note of the route the night before for exactly this reason.

I was prepared.

So, in the pitch dark, I quietly tiptoed across the room. I was feeling pretty damn proud of myself. Not a toe stubbed. Not a piece of furniture bumped. I was practically a ninja. And, most importantly, I hadn't woken my sleeping cousin.

I was feeling pretty damn proud of myself when suddenly...BANG!

Yup. The bathroom door was closed. Face first into the door.

It was painted a dark colour, so in the pitch black it looked like a void. A perfect, complete empty-looking void. It most definitely was not.

I stood there in the dark, whispering a few choice swear words under my breath, when I heard a little giggle coming from the peanut gallery.

Not a “Are you okay?” Not an “OMG, what happened?” Nope.

Just a little giggle... followed by a snore.

Ma Jolie Louise à la Maison Mathilde

Another favourite of ours was La Maison Mathilde. You know the food has to be good when there’s a lineup outside for breakfast. So again, reservations are a must.

We didn't have one though because this was a last-minute suggestion from a friend of mine. Merci, Mona! But honestly, the 15-minute wait was absolutely worth it.

This not-so-little restaurant just keeps delivering. You first walk into a, for lack of a better term, bright white bar-like area. Then you step into a lovely seating area, and if you keep going, there’s a covered sunroom that spills out into a garden.

And can I just take a minute to talk about our Beautiful Hostess Louise ? Her and I bonded immediately. There was something about her energy that felt so familiar. She had this beautiful smile about her that reminded me so much of my grandmother.

And oddly enough, just before we walked into the restaurant, Natasha and I had shared a moment in the car talking about our grandfather, with a tear or two along the way. Then we walked in and I met Louise.

Then she told me she was 80 years young.

It was one of those little moments where you think, Okay, I know I was supposed to meet this woman.

And just like that, it felt like we'd known each other all our lives. We hugged, and then we held that hug just a little longer.

And then there was the food. YUM!

We had the most delicious eggs Benedict, served on the crispiest, moistest, most meat-filled crab cake. I mean… come on! 😂

Not only was my belly full after breakfast, but more importantly, my soul was nourished by this woman's light.

Again, the universe gave us a little nod.

Bouton et Porcelaine

Bouton et Porcelaine is such a cute, fresh little boutique. A mix of vintage and contemporary finds, with everything Canadian-made.

This is a new addition to the Percé area. It had only been open for a few months when we were there, so we were happy to discover it early on. You’ll find a little bit of everything, from reinvented pieces to plants, handmade crafts and cozy candles.

If you're in the area, make sure to show her some love and pop in for a visit. Or follow her on Instagram and see what she’s finding!

Part 4-Gaspe Road Trip: Even Lighthouses Need a Little Guidance

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